PDQ technician servicing a machine in the shop
Service Guide

Your Tractor Has Been Sitting for Months. Here's What to Check Before Starting It. Usually it is the battery, the fuel or a mouse. Check those before you crank it for a full minute and make things worse

Disclosure. We run a service department and a parts counter, so a tractor that will not start is, strictly speaking, good for business. We would still rather you fix the easy stuff yourself and bring us the hard stuff.

Short answer: Before starting a tractor that has sat for months, look for rodent nests and chewed wires, charge the battery, drain water from the fuel separator, and check engine oil, coolant, hydraulic fluid and tire pressure. If it still won't start, check the safety switches (seat, PTO off, transmission in neutral) before assuming anything is broken.

Tractors do not wear out from sitting. They get ambushed by it.

It usually goes like this. Heavy use in spring, then it sat through summer under a tarp. First rain, washed-out driveway, and the tractor clicks once and goes quiet. That is when people start cranking, jumping and spraying things into the intake. Slow down. Twenty minutes of checking beats a week waiting on a starter.

Most Kubota tractors are diesel, so this is written mostly for diesel. None of it replaces your operator's manual, which has a storage section most people have never opened.

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Kubota LX2620 tractor with a cab and loader on a lawn beside a house
Start here

What Months of Sitting Actually Does

A tractor parked for a few months is not ruined. It just goes off, like milk, in a few predictable places.

The battery drains on its own

Batteries self-discharge with nothing connected, and heat speeds it up. A hot shed in Riverside County or inland San Diego County in August is about as hard on a battery as it gets.

Fuel picks up water and gets old

A partly empty diesel tank breathes moist air as temperatures swing. Water condenses, settles and gives microbes a place to grow. Ethanol gasoline goes stale in months unless stabilized.

Animals move in

Mice and packrats nest in quiet engine bays and chew wiring. Wasps build in vents. This is the one that turns a ten minute start into a repair bill.

Rubber and tires settle

Tires lose pressure. Sun and dry Santa Ana air crack sidewalls and hoses. It adds up.

Before the key

Walk Around It Before You Touch the Key

Key in your pocket, not the ignition. Bring a flashlight, gloves and a dust mask.

Look for nests and chewed wires

Open the hood and look down, not just in
Check on top of the engine, behind the radiator and under the seat. Droppings mean keep looking. Even one chewed wire needs repair before you start it.
Do not sweep or blow out droppings dry
Rodent droppings can carry disease. Wet them with disinfectant and wipe them up with gloves on. No leaf blower, no shop vac.
Check the air intake and exhaust openings
A nest in the filter box or exhaust outlet can choke the engine. Shine a light in both.

Look for leaks and loose things

Check under it
A drip spot where it was parked tells you where to look. An old stain is not an emergency. A fresh puddle is.
Check the tires
Low is normal after months. Cracked or bulging is not. Set pressure per the manual. If your rears are liquid ballasted, our guide to tractor tires and ballast covers what that changes.
The usual suspects

Battery and Fuel: Where Most No-Starts Live

If your tractor won't start after sitting, the odds say it is one of these two.

Get the battery right first

Clean and tighten the terminals
Crust on the posts blocks current even on a good battery. Negative off first, clean, positive on first.
Charge it slowly, then test it
Use a proper charger instead of jumping it off a truck and hoping. If it will not hold a full charge, it is done. A load test settles it.
Jump starting has rules
Batteries give off hydrogen gas. Follow the manual's jump steps and keep sparks away. Crossed cables can damage the electrical system.

Then deal with the fuel

Drain the water separator
Most Kubota diesels have a water separator bowl on the fuel line. Drain it until clean fuel runs. Lots of water or black slime means the tank needs attention and a new fuel filter.
Know whether your fuel system bleeds itself
Some diesels purge air on their own; others need bleeding by hand after a filter change or running dry. The manual says which.
Gas machines: old fuel goes bad
Months-old unstabilized gas can gum up a carburetor. Draining and refilling is cheaper than cleaning one.
What the no-start tells you
What happens when you turn the keyLikely causeFirst thing to check
Nothing at all, no clickSafety switch, dead battery or a chewed wirePTO off, neutral, seated, then battery
One click, or rapid clickingWeak battery or bad connectionClean terminals and charge
Cranks slowlyWeak battery or thick old oilCharge the battery, check the oil
Cranks fine, never firesFuel or glow plugsWater separator, fuel level, glow plug wait time
Starts, then diesFuel starvation or air in the linesFuel filter and bleeding procedure
Grinding or a knockSomething mechanicalStop and call the shop

Notice the first row. Safety interlocks block cranking unless the PTO is off, the transmission is in neutral (or the clutch is down) and, on many machines, someone is in the seat. A lot of "dead" tractors are a bumped PTO switch or a seat switch wire a mouse found tasty.

Shelves of parts in the PDQ parts warehouse
Dipsticks and zerks

Fluids, Grease and Filters

Park it level and check everything cold. That is the honest reading.

Engine oil

Dark is normal. Milky or foamy can mean water or coolant got in; do not start it until someone looks. If the change is overdue by hours or by time, do it now. Oil ages even when the engine does not run.

Coolant

Check the reservoir cold. Never open a radiator cap on a warm engine. Clean the radiator screen too; SoCal dust and seed heads pack into it, and that is how tractors overheat.

Hydraulic and transmission fluid

On many Kubota tractors the transmission and hydraulics share one fluid, checked at the rear. Milky fluid points to water. Kubota specifies its own fluid for many models. Our guide to Kubota hydraulic fluid explains what goes in and why.

Grease points

Pump fresh grease into every grease fitting (the small nipples, called zerks, at pivot points) on the loader, front axle and 3-point hitch. Fifteen minutes. Cheapest maintenance on the machine.

Air filter

Chewed, torn or nested means a new filter. Dirt past the filter goes straight into the engine.

Intervals and filter lists are in our Kubota maintenance basics guide. If you are not sure which filters fit your machine, the Kubota serial number lookup guide shows where to find the numbers the parts counter needs.

Turning the key

The First Start, Done Gently

Battery charged, PTO off, neutral, parking brake set, ROPS (the rollover bar) up, you in the seat, belt on.

Let the glow plugs do their job

Diesels use glow plugs or an intake heater to start cold. Wait out the preheat light before cranking. Skipping it is how people decide a good tractor is broken.

Crank in short bursts

A few seconds, then rest. Long cranking cooks the starter and drains the battery you just charged. The manual gives the limit.

Idle, watch, listen

Low idle. Watch the warning lights go out and listen for knocks. Smoke that does not clear means shut it down and ask.

Work the hydraulics and brakes before the job

Cycle the loader and 3-point empty, test the brakes, look for leaks. On a newer tractor with a diesel particulate filter, skip the hour of idling. Our DPF regeneration guide covers why.

If you are starting it for storm cleanup and the ground is still saturated, wait. Our guide on whether a compact tractor can handle a muddy property explains what wet clay does, and the after-the-rain cleanup guide has the order to work in. Nobody runs a tractor in moving water, on a soaked slope or during a storm warning.

Things that break things

What Not to Do

Do not spray starting fluid without reading the manual
Ether on a diesel with glow plugs or an intake heater is a common manual warning; it can damage the engine. Check yours. If it needs ether to run, something else is wrong.
Do not bypass safety switches
Wiring around a seat switch removes the thing that stops a tractor starting in gear. Find the bad switch instead.
Do not crank it for a minute straight
You will cook the starter and flatten the battery.
Do not ignore a fresh puddle
A cracked hose fails under pressure, and pressurized hydraulic oil can injure skin. Check for leaks with cardboard, never your hand.
PDQ Kubota parts and service counter
Knowing when to quit

When to Stop and Bring It In

Here is where we would stop, too, if it were our tractor.

Chewed wiring harness
Usually worse than it looks. Our service department sees a lot of it.
Milky oil or fluid
Do not run it to see what happens.
Charged battery, safety switches checked, still nothing
Starter, relay, fuse or wiring. Not a guessing job.
Cranks forever and will not fire after bleeding
Injection, glow plugs or bad fuel. A shop saves you a pile of parts swapping.
Knocking, grinding, or smoke that will not clear
Shut it down. Noises do not improve with running.

If you want to do the work yourself, the PDQ parts counter can pull filters, fluids and belts by model and serial number. Have both ready.

If the job cannot wait for the repair

If the tractor is in the shop the week the driveway washes out, rent. PDQ rents skid steers, track loaders, garden tractors and dump trucks through the PDQ rentals site, or hire a contractor for a one-time job. PDQ's posted rental policies say a valid California driver's license is required for all rentals and deposits vary by item; the signed rental contract is what governs. For anything else, ask, and see the rental policies page.

Next summer

How to Store It So This Does Not Happen Again

In much of LA County, Riverside County and San Diego County, the off season is summer: the hottest, driest months, rough on batteries, rubber and fuel. A little prep before you park it fixes most of this guide.

Fill the tank
Less air means less condensation. On gas machines, add stabilizer and run it through.
Keep the battery up
A battery maintainer (a small charger that holds it at full) is cheap insurance. No outlet? Disconnect the negative cable.
Make it unattractive to rodents
Park inside, keep feed and seed bags out of that shed, and check under the hood every few weeks.
Change the oil and grease it before storage
Used oil carries acids and moisture. Grease pushes out water.
Cover it, and get it off dirt
Keep sun off the seat, tires and hoses. Concrete or gravel beats bare soil.
Run it once a month if you can
Warm it fully and work the hydraulics. A short idle that never warms up does little good.

Thinking about buying a first tractor? Our guide on what first-time tractor buyers overlook is honest about storage and service. If the problem is a PTO driveline, see why PTO shafts fail.

If you read nothing else

The Short Version

Look before you crank

Nests, chewed wires and leaks first. Chewed wiring means stop and fix it before the key goes in.

Battery and fuel cause most no-starts

Clean terminals, charge it fully, drain the water separator. Then try again.

Check the safety switches

PTO off, neutral, in the seat. A lot of dead tractors are just a bumped switch.

No ether, no long cranking

Glow plugs need their wait. Short cranks with rests. If it still will not go, bring it in.

Run through this first

Seven Things to Check Before You Call the Shop

  1. Did I look for nests and chewed wiring under the hood, the seat and the floor panel?
  2. Is the battery fully charged, with clean, tight terminals?
  3. Is the PTO off, the transmission in neutral and am I in the seat?
  4. Did I drain the water separator, and is there actually fuel in the tank?
  5. Are the oil, coolant and hydraulic fluid at the right level, and none of them milky?
  6. Did I wait out the glow plug preheat before cranking?
  7. Do I have the model and serial number written down for the service or parts counter?
Questions we get

Straight Answers

Why won't my tractor start after sitting all summer?

The most common causes are a discharged battery, water or stale fuel in the system, a safety switch that is not engaged, or wiring chewed by rodents. Check those before assuming a bigger problem.

Can I use starting fluid on a Kubota diesel tractor?

Many diesel tractor manuals warn against using starting fluid on engines with glow plugs or intake heaters because it can ignite early and damage the engine. Check your operator's manual first.

How long can a diesel tractor sit without being started?

There is no single number, but problems usually build over a few months. A full tank, a battery maintainer and a monthly run to full temperature keep a stored tractor ready.

What should I check before starting a tractor that has been sitting?

Check for rodent nests and chewed wires, battery charge and terminals, water in the fuel separator, engine oil, coolant, hydraulic and transmission fluid, tire pressure, the air filter and grease points. Then start it gently and watch the gauges.

How do I know if my tractor battery is bad or just dead?

Charge it fully with a proper charger and have it load tested. If it will not hold a charge or fails the load test, it needs replacing.

Is milky oil in my tractor a serious problem?

It can be. Milky or foamy engine oil, or milky hydraulic fluid, points to water or coolant contamination. Do not run it until a service shop finds the cause.

Bring It By, or Do It Yourself

Fine, This Is Also an Ad

A dealer wrote a guide on how to avoid paying a dealer to fix your tractor. We know how that looks. We wrote it anyway. The easy fixes really are easy.

If it still will not start, tell us the model, the serial number and what it does when you turn the key. We will tell you whether it is a shop job or a five dollar fix you can do in the driveway.

Seventy-some years of fixing tractors and the most common repair is still a mouse. We have made our peace with it.

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