Kubota LX compact tractor with a rear implement mounted on the three point hitch
Buyer's Guide

The Implements You Actually Buy First Box blade, rotary cutter, grapple, quick hitch, and the Land Pride order almost every compact tractor owner ends up in anyway

Disclosure before anything else. We sell Land Pride implements, we sell the Kubota tractors they hang off, and we rent both. Renting is the part that matters, because we pay for what comes back broken.

So read this with the obvious suspicion. Here is the other half, up front. Most compact tractor owners buy too many implements and use three of them. We know, because we sell the ones that get used and the ones that end up leaned against a fence with a wasp nest in the gearbox. There is a section below on both.

The useful part is that the order is consistent. Five acres in Temecula, a horse setup in North County, a hillside lot above Sun Valley, everyone lands on the same list in the same sequence. Box blade. Rotary cutter. Grapple. Then whatever the dirt demands.

Nobody budgets for implements. They budget for the tractor, then discover the implements are a second purchase with their own four figure invoices attached.

Jump to what you came for

The sequence, regrets included

The Order Almost Everyone Buys In

This is not a ranking. It is what we watch happen from the first delivery to about year three, stable enough to be a little funny.

What compact tractor owners buy, in the sequence they buy it
ImplementWhere it landsHonest read
Box bladeFirst, usually same dayThe right call. Drives, pads, dragging out ruts after a storm cycle. Earns its keep the first weekend.
Rotary cutterSecond, before fire seasonAlso right on acreage. Weed abatement is not optional here, and the alternative is paying a crew.
Front grappleThird, after the first brush pileBought later than it should be. Owners say they wanted it day one, because moving material by hand is the bottleneck.
Quick hitchFourth, sometimes neverWrong position in the order. Cheapest thing here and the reason the others get used.
Pallet forksFifth, and correctlyNo hydraulics, no PTO, nothing to break. Feed, posts, block, they pay off fast.
Post hole diggerBought early, used twiceThe classic. Buy an auger to set a fence, then it sits four years. Decomposed granite and caliche eat the bit.

That is our read from one yard in Southern California, not a survey. Somebody working row crop would rewrite it.

The first three cover most of the work
Box blade, rotary cutter, grapple, plus forks if you move material. That is the kit. Everything after it solves one specific problem, and should be bought that way.
Buy the tractor for the implement you cannot avoid
If your property demands a six foot rotary cutter, that sizes your tractor. Do not buy a small tractor and then hunt for implements that fit it. That is the most expensive mistake on this page. Still at that stage? Start with what size tractor you actually need.
Rent the one you will use once
Trenchers, an auger for one fence run, a tiller for one garden install. Rent it. An implement you use one weekend a year is storage, not an asset, and we would rather rent it to you twice.

The Land Pride catalogue is deep enough to be a problem on its own. Browse it on our attachments page after you decide what you need. Catalogues are how people end up owning a disc harrow.

Two Kubota compact tractors, one with a rear blade and one with a rotary cutter
The first purchase

Why the Box Blade Comes First

Because dirt moves and nobody warns you how much. A gravel drive above Escondido does not stay where you put it. One wet cycle and half of it sits in a berm at the bottom of the grade. A box blade fixes that in an afternoon, every year.

Scarifiers are the part that does the work
The shanks across the front break the crust so the blades can move material. Decomposed granite packs down like pavement, and caliche and hardpan laugh at a blade dragged over the surface. Skip the scarifiers and you polish the top of the problem.
Width matches your rear tire track, or slightly exceeds it
The point is covering the ruts the tractor just made. Narrower than the track and you spend the day chasing your own tire marks.
Weight is a feature, and also the limit
A heavy box blade cuts. A light one floats over the hard stuff. But the three point lift rating is not a suggestion, and a rear implement on a small tractor on a slope unloads the front end. Buy reversible cutting edges, because decomposed granite eats them.

The box blade is the only implement owners describe as fun. Make of that what you will.

Kubota BX compact tractor running a rear mounted rotary cutter
The second purchase, and the argument

Rotary Cutter or Flail Mower

This is the one people get wrong, and both are real purchases, so it is expensive. They look like the same job and they are not.

Rotary cutter vs flail mower on a compact tractor
Rotary cutterFlail mower
What it handlesWins. Heavy brush, saplings, rank weeds. Built to hit things.Grass, light brush, overgrown pasture. It does not want to meet a stump.
Finish qualityRough. Knocks material down and leaves windrows behind it.Wins. Cuts fine and spreads evenly. Looks maintained rather than flattened.
What it throwsRocks, and far. A real hazard near buildings, cars, fences and people.Wins. Throws down, not out. This is why it exists for roadsides and fence lines.
Width per horsepowerWins. More cutting width for the same PTO horsepower.Heavier and hungrier. The same tractor buys you a narrower machine.
Purchase costWins. Meaningfully less for comparable width.The premium is real, plus dozens of knives to replace. It is why most people never buy one.

No dollar figures here on purpose. Implement pricing moves, and anything we printed would be wrong by the time you read it. Call any branch for a current number.

Rotary cutter if the job is abatement
Fire season clearance, a back acre that gets away from you every spring, brush along a canyon edge. You are not making it pretty, you are making it compliant and less flammable. The rotary cutter is the cheaper answer.
Flail if the ground is groomed or the throw is a problem
Horse property, an arena perimeter, a drive lined with vehicles, anything beside a neighbor's fence. The rock throw is not theoretical. The flail earns its premium the first time it does not put a stone through a window.
Heavier material is a different conversation
Six inch trunks, dense chaparral, anything a cutter bounces off. That is mulcher and grapple territory on a different machine, covered in brush clearing equipment.

On horse property the flail question settles itself, along with four other implement decisions. See tractors for horse property.

The part that returns implements

What Your Tractor Can Actually Lift and Turn

Most implement returns are not a defect. They are somebody buying a tool their tractor cannot carry, cannot spin, or cannot feed enough power to. Four numbers decide it, and all four are on spec sheets you already have.

PTO horsepower, not engine horsepower
Engine horsepower is the brochure number. PTO horsepower is what reaches the implement after the driveline takes its cut, and it is always smaller. Every Land Pride implement that spins carries a horsepower range. Sit inside it, not at the bottom. Under the range you stall. Over the top you break the implement instead of the tractor.
Three point lift capacity, measured where it matters
Capacity is quoted at the lift points and again at a distance behind them, and the second number is far smaller. A long implement hangs its weight well behind the hitch, so compare that rating to the implement's real weight. A hitch at its limit on flat ground has nothing left on a Temecula hillside.
Hitch category, which is the easy one
Compact tractors are typically Category 1, sub compacts often use a smaller standard, larger utility tractors move to Category 2. Pin diameter and spacing differ. A five second check that saves a delivery you have to send back.
Rear ballast and front axle load
The loader lifts against the back of the tractor. Without ballast a heavy front load lightens the rear wheels and steering goes vague right when you need it. A rear implement doubles as ballast, which is a real argument for leaving the box blade on.

Read the implement's rating sheet once against your tractor's. Four minutes, and it prevents most of what goes wrong above.

Three classes, different lists

Which Tractor You Are Actually Standing On

Sub compact
Kubota BX23S sub compact tractor

BX class, one to three acres

Mower deck, small box blade, pallet forks, light grapple. Narrow implements inside its lift rating and track width. This class gets ruined by people hanging utility tractor implements on it.

Compact
Kubota B Series compact tractor

B and LX class, the volume answer

The class this guide is written for. Full size box blade, a rotary cutter sized to its PTO rating, a real grapple, a quick hitch. Five acres in the Inland Empire or North County, this is your tractor.

Compact plus backhoe
Kubota B Series compact tractor fitted with a backhoe

Backhoe on the back, and the tradeoff

A backhoe turns the tractor into a digging machine and the three point hitch into a parking spot. Swapping it off to run a cutter is a job, not a task. Own it if you dig monthly, rent if you dig twice a year.

Sizing is a separate argument. Start with the right tractor for five acres, or real ground in Kubota tractors on a Temecula ranch. The lineup is on the compact tractor page.

If you skipped to the bottom

The Short Version

New tractor, gravel drive, some acreage?

Box blade, quick hitch, rotary cutter. In that order, in year one. That kit handles what almost every Southern California property generates.

Moving brush, rock or logs by hand?

Front grapple, and you should have bought it already. It is the implement owners say changed how much they use the tractor at all.

Mowing near cars, fences or a neighbor?

Flail mower. Pay the premium. A rotary cutter throws rocks and that bill arrives all at once.

One fence line, one trench, one garden bed?

Rent the implement. Do not buy an auger to dig eleven holes. And if you are digging more than mowing, rent a mini excavator instead, because it digs better than any tractor backhoe.

Not sure your tractor can carry it?

Bring the model number. We will check the lift rating and the PTO range against the implement before anything goes on a trailer.

Talk to someone who runs these
From our own rental fleet

The Quick Hitch, the Grapple, and What Ours Have Cost Us

Two implements earn their own section. One is the cheapest thing on the list.

A quick hitch is the reason your other implements get used
Hooking up by hand means backing up, getting off, fighting the lower arms, hunting pins, setting the top link. Fifteen minutes and a certain amount of language. A quick hitch makes it a back up and a lever. That is the difference between grabbing the box blade for twenty minutes of work and deciding it can wait until Saturday.
Quick hitch compatibility is the catch
Not every implement mates cleanly to every hitch, especially older or off brand ones. Pin spacing and top link position have to line up. Land Pride on a Land Pride hitch is the path of least argument, which is convenient for us and also true.
The grapple is a hydraulics decision first
It runs off front auxiliary hydraulics, and plenty of tractors leave the lot without them. Adding a third function valve and the plumbing later costs more than ordering it that way. If a grapple is anywhere in your future, sort the hydraulics when you buy the tractor.
Couplers are where our money goes
Here is what our own rental fleet actually spends on. Not gearboxes. Couplers and drivelines. The female coupler sits open, collects grit, somebody connects a dirty fitting, and then it is a hydraulic system problem with more digits on the invoice. Same story with u joints nobody greases. Five minute habits we pay for because renters skip them.
The part that actually matters

Most of What You Just Read Is Secondary

Time to undercut the article. The implement comparison above is the least important thing on this page.

Land Pride, Woods, Frontier, Bush Hog and half a dozen others all build a box blade that will outlive your interest in grading. The differences are small and none of them decides whether you are happy in five years.

What decides it is whether the implement fits your tractor, whether you can get a blade or a gearbox without a three week wait, and whether anybody picks up the phone. Local problems, nothing to do with paint colour.

Buying the right implement for the wrong tractor is the most common mistake we see, and no comparison chart on the internet will catch it for you.

So skip the forum threads and ask these five questions of whoever you buy from:

  1. What is the PTO horsepower range on this implement, and where does my tractor sit inside it?
  2. What is my three point lift capacity behind the lift points, and what does this implement weigh?
  3. Do you stock the wear parts, blades, shear bolts, gearboxes, driveline components, or is everything ordered in?
  4. Will this mate to a quick hitch, and if not, what will?
  5. Can I rent this one before I buy it?

That last question sorts dealers. Three branches, Sun Valley in Los Angeles, Temecula, and Escondido in San Diego, same family since 1952. Ask us all five, then ask whoever else you are considering.

Questions we get

Straight Answers

What attachments do I need for a compact tractor?

Three cover most of the work. A box blade for driveways, pads and grading, a rotary cutter for weeds and brush, and a front grapple for material you would otherwise move by hand. Add pallet forks if you move anything on a pallet, and a quick hitch so swapping takes a minute instead of fifteen. Buy anything past that to solve a specific problem, after the problem shows up.

What should be the first implement I buy for a compact tractor?

A box blade, in almost every case. Gravel drives wash out, pads settle, ruts appear after every wet cycle, and a box blade fixes all of it. It is also useful the first weekend, which is not true of most implements. On hard Southern California ground the scarifier shanks matter more than the blade, because decomposed granite and caliche pack down and a blade dragged across the surface does nothing.

Should I get a rotary cutter or a flail mower?

Rotary cutter for heavy brush, saplings and fire season abatement. It takes rougher material, gives more cutting width for the same PTO horsepower, costs less and is simpler to maintain. Flail mower for a finished cut and anywhere the throw is a hazard, near vehicles, fences or a neighbor's property, because a flail throws material down instead of out. Heavier than either handles and you are into mulcher territory, which is a different machine.

Will Land Pride implements fit my Kubota tractor?

Generally yes, and Land Pride is the line we stock alongside Kubota tractors for that reason. Fit still comes down to three checks. Confirm the three point hitch category matches, confirm your PTO horsepower sits inside the implement's rated range rather than at the bottom of it, and confirm your lift capacity handles the implement's weight at distance behind the lift points. Bring your model number and we will check all three.

What size box blade do I need?

Match your rear tire track or go slightly wider, so the blade covers the ruts your own tires make. Narrower and you spend the day chasing tire marks. Much wider and you are lifting and turning weight for nothing. Weight helps a box blade cut, but the three point lift rating is a hard limit, so check the implement weight against your tractor before choosing a width.

Is a quick hitch worth it on a compact tractor?

It is the best value on the list. Connecting a three point implement by hand takes ten to fifteen minutes of backing up, climbing off, wrestling the lower arms and setting the top link. A quick hitch turns that into a back up and a lever. The effect is that you swap implements for short jobs instead of putting them off, so the implements you already paid for get used. Check compatibility first.

Come Look at One

Yes, This Was an Ad

You just read an implement dealer explain which implements to buy. You saw it coming in the first paragraph and read on anyway, so we will skip the pitch.

Here is what the ad is for. Bring your model number to any branch and we will put the implement rating sheet next to your tractor's spec sheet. If your tractor cannot carry what you came in for, we will say so, because a returned implement costs us more than the sale was worth.

If the answer is rent it, we will say that too. The customer who rents an auger for one fence run buys a grapple from us two years later.

We have been here since 1952 by being the yard people call back, not the yard that moved one more box blade this quarter.

Los Angeles
Sun Valley
213-513-7423
Temecula
Riverside County
951-517-2979
San Diego
Escondido
619-363-0440

Request a Quote or More Info

No spam. No bots. Just real people who know equipment.

Family owned since 1952 Los Angeles · Temecula · San Diego